Uncovering the Stories within Each Facet with Susan Cohen of CIRCA 1700
“I love hidden messages or messages that aren’t immediately apparent...”
Hi lovely people,
The jewelry and gem world is buzzing as we head into the major event of the year: Jewelry Week in Las Vegas. During this week, Sin City hosts the largest domestic trade shows, including JCK Las Vegas, the AGTA Gem Fair, Couture, and the antique and watch shows, where jewelry and gemstone professionals from across the industry gather for networking and business. While I'll be experiencing this pivotal week from home with my newborn babe, rest assured, I'll be awaiting all the post-show gossip and downloads so I can share the highlights and insights with you all, of course.
There's someone I've found particularly compelling: Susan Cohen of CIRCA 1700, who will be debuting at Couture this year. I first encountered Susan's work during a visit to A Current Affair's Brooklyn pop-up last year. I was immediately taken and began following her on Instagram, eager to learn more about her unique vision. She masterfully blends old-world materials, imbued with the stories of lives long ago, by reimagining them in new designs to tell a new story for the current wearer, thus continuing the narrative. So, when the opportunity to chat with her arose, I jumped at it. And now, here we are...
There's a lot of great content here, and you won't want to miss any of this interview! To ensure you see everything, open this email in your browser or, even better, view it in the Substack app, which I highly recommend.
Meet Susan Cohen, the founder of CIRCA 1700, a jewelry brand born from the desire to create pieces that are both deeply symbolic and a true extension of the wearer's personal style. For Susan, jewelry is a captivating blend of storytelling and self-expression, often incorporating what she calls 'gem mechanics' to bring an interactive and playful dimension to her work. From these engaging elements to hidden Morse code messages, her creations invite closer inspection and connection. Inspired by the historical richness and hidden meanings often found in Georgian jewelry, Susan masterfully marries past and present.
“For me, jewelry is a personal journey of exploration and a literal obsession.”
Could you tell our readers a little bit about who you are and your journey into the world of jewelry design?
I’m hung up on anything that hangs or wraps or dangles, and just happens to sparkle and tell something about the wearer of the piece. For me, jewelry is a personal journey of exploration and a literal obsession. While attending the American Film Institute, and with a lack of funds preventing me from indulging in my obsession, I started to design jewelry. It was a perfect extension to storytelling since so much of the beauty of jewelry is in what it says. And I love that it can be front and centre or hidden and only revealed by the wearer.
In addition to jewelry, rescuing cats is another passion of mine!
Can you share the story behind the name "CIRCA 1700"? What significance does that period hold for you and your design philosophy?
Georgian jewelry was love at first sight. It’s steeped in history, but still has a very rock-and-roll sensibility. I love that it utilizes mixed metals with stones that were hand-cut and imperfect, which is the beauty of Georgian jewelry, as well as steeped in symbolism and often containing hidden messages. This period has had a massive impact on my design aesthetic, from the gemstones that I use to the types of metals I work with, to the messages that are infused in the pieces I design.
CIRCA 1700 was founded with the intention of creating jewelry infused with both symbolism and personal style. How do you see these two aspects working together in your creations?
A person reveals so much about themselves with what they wear and how they adorn themselves. I love that symbolic jewelry is having a renaissance - wearers are wanting something that speaks to who they are and what matters to them. I tend to wear my heart on my jewelry, and much of what I design bears my emotional DNA.
A perfect example is the DNA Puzzle Initial Collection, which was envisioned on the 5th anniversary of my father’s passing. I wanted a piece that was symbolic and a celebration of life. The DNA Puzzle Initial Collection pieces represent our past, present, and future—the DNA of who we are. The wearer can further customize the puzzle pieces with gemstones, symbols, or words that hold symbolic meaning for them.
“I love hidden messages or messages that aren’t immediately apparent, requiring deeper inspection of and interaction with a piece to reveal the symbolism or meaning.”
How would you describe your brand's unique aesthetic and ethos?
I take my inspiration from what is impacting me and the world around me. I love hidden messages or messages that aren’t immediately apparent, requiring deeper inspection of and interaction with a piece to reveal the symbolism or meaning, which brings me to the mechanics of pieces. I love anything mechanical because it allows me to really play with the design of a piece to figure out how the symbolism or meaning of the piece can be enhanced by integrating a mechanical element.
A piece that exemplifies this is the Secret Talisman Spinning Orb or the various mechanical clasps. Figuring out the mechanics of both was challenging and rewarding. I love that the wearer gets to interact with these pieces and incorporate them in unexpected ways. The clasps provide limitless possibilities, and when a client sends photos of how they have imagined its use with their personal collection, I’m often mesmerized by how creative they have gotten with a piece of jewelry.
Antique and vintage components are a signature of CIRCA 1700. Could you share what draws you to them and how you see them working alongside your contemporary designs?
I love incorporating elements from the past; they tell a story and are full of hidden adventures that spark the imagination. The symbolism of the antique and vintage compasses and the journeys they have seen has been truly inspiring. And crafting pieces that house these little mechanical elements provides limitless inspiration. I will be premiering a new compass design at Couture that is both whimsical and uses the compass as a decision-making tool for the wearer.
Your pieces are so rich with meaning. What sparks the initial idea for a new creation?
Symbolism is the first step in any design for me, it’s similar to writing a story. You can’t write a story without knowing the ending. I have to completely envision a piece’s symbolism before I can even start the design process.
“Jewelry is like brush strokes, each brush stroke should be unique and add something to the canvas.”
You've mentioned seeing the human form as a canvas. How does this perspective influence the way you approach designing jewelry?
Jewelry is like brush strokes, each brush stroke should be unique and add something to the canvas. That is what I strive for when I design a piece. I want what I create to feel unique and fresh, and add something to the canvas that adds to the story that is being told.
Could you tell me more about your process of being the "first test subject" for your designs? How does this personal connection shape the final pieces?
I can’t move forward with a design that I wouldn’t wear. Jewelry is so personal, which is why my line is very streamlined. Each piece has to be an extension of my personal aesthetic and speak to something that is core to me. The symbolism is so integral to the design process.
The Love & Strength = Victory Ring, with its Morse code detail, is a beautiful example of hidden symbolism. Can you share more about the inspiration behind this piece?
This piece is extremely personal to me, and I wear this ring almost every day in memory of my relatives who fought in WWII. Without them, I wouldn’t enjoy the freedoms I have today.
The ring was designed to incorporate the Morse code for “victory”. Three dots and a dash. So simple, but so powerful. During WWI & WWII, allied troops would use a Morse code V for “victory” to report a successful mission. Because the ring is designed around these three dots and a dash, victory is always revealed, no matter which way the ring faces.
Conversions of Victorian arrow pins inspired the shape. But I wanted to incorporate Victory into the fletching - the feathers that stabilize the arrow, which in Old French, the word “flèche” translates to “arrow” - by using a modern twist of baguette diamonds down the center to create the dash. The entire ring is designed to evoke forward motion, with the fletching mirroring a shield for strength.
The four chevrons (8 in total) were added to each side of the shank to represent the head of the arrow, as well as symbolizing infinity. Finally, there is a little hidden message on the interior of the shank, an enamel heart, to represent infinite love.
Why is the element of customization important to you?
Being able to customize a piece allows the wearer to be part of the process and speaks to what symbolism is important to them, even down to the colour of the enamel. What a person wears should be an extension of their personal style. Paintbrush strokes on a canvas - no matter how small, each stroke is important to the image it creates.
“I can only hope that my pieces are passed down from generation to generation and that they connect each generation to the next, allowing a continuation of the story. That would be an incredible honour.”
What are some of the biggest rewards you find in creating and sharing your jewelry with the world?
I can only hope that my pieces are passed down from generation to generation and that they connect each generation to the next, allowing a continuation of the story. That would be an incredible honour. Or that a piece I designed inspires, like the pieces from the past have done for me, and it becomes a building block for another designer decades from now, that they improve on and take in a new direction.
What's next for CIRCA 1700? Are there any new directions or collections you're particularly excited about?
I have been ruminating about a new collection, and I know that I want it to symbolize the mathematics of human connection…
Thank you to Susan Cohen for giving us a glimpse into her creative process. If you're attending Couture, don't miss the chance to see her jewelry in the flesh. And for those of us at home, Instagram is the perfect place to follow her artistic journey.
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xx Veronica
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such an amazing read Veronica! Looking forward to see what Susan will create xx
Great story. I’ve been looking forward to seeing the collection at Couture. Now I can’t wait.