The Collector's Eye with Jalil Johnson
“Jewelry is the punctuation to an outfit – maybe a period, an exclamation mark, or even a question mark.”
Hi everyone! I am back with another installment of The Collector’s Eye, a series where I explore the distinctive approaches, personal stories, and beloved pieces of fellow stylish jewelry enthusiasts I admire.
Today, I feel privileged to feature the one and only
Originally from a small town in Virginia, Jalil's move to New York City was driven by academic and journalistic ambitions. Though his path broadened to include styling and luxury retail, these experiences ultimately informed his insightful newsletter, Consider Yourself Cultured, launched in 2023 as a creative outlet focused on fashion, style, and discerning living. Reflecting on its start, Jalil explained, “I started the newsletter while I was still at Saks, really as a creative pursuit, because I wasn't feeling terribly fulfilled in my day-to-day job... I wanted a bit more.” This desire for greater creative fulfillment led him to fully focus on his newsletter and content creation.
And Jalil is booked and busy, babyyy! Not only is he collaborating with brands on content (he's seemingly everywhere!), but as a notable presence around town and the Stylist in Residence at At Present, he curates collections (including his 'BOLD' vintage-inspired line), scouts new designers, and plays a key role in shaping their aesthetic. Following the Met Gala, his insightful recaps on Substack and the podcast The New Garde with
There's a lot of great content here, and you won't want to miss any of this interview! To ensure you see everything, open this email in your browser or, even better, view it in the Substack app, which I highly recommend.
This interview has been edited for clarity and length.
What’s your earliest memory of jewelry? Was there a specific piece or person who sparked your interest?
Growing up, I remember my mom having jewelry, and she definitely influenced my early appreciation for fashion. We were a working-class family that wore jewelry, though it wasn't something we often talked about. But a distinct memory involves going to St. Thomas for my uncle's birthday. We visited a jewelry store, and there was this one particular bracelet that I just had to have. It was stainless steel, which is funny because I don't really wear silver or stainless steel now; I predominantly wear gold. So it's amazing that when I was around ten, I was insistent on getting a stainless steel bracelet with a crucifix studded in cubic zirconia. I was obsessed and bought it for $110 – a significant amount for me then, as it still is in some ways. I wore that bracelet religiously for several years.
Did you inherit any jewelry or have family heirlooms that influenced your style?
In terms of heirloom pieces, there aren't many. I know that there's one thing that I will possibly inherit, and it's going to be from my grandmother on my dad's side, and it's a cross in diamonds. But other than that, I don't think there's a tradition necessarily of passing things down in my family. So I do think about all the things that I have been collecting as future heirloom pieces, and I think that's why I'm fine to spend a certain amount of money on these things, because I think of these as possibly things that can be passed down.
When did you first start expressing your personal style through jewelry?
I remember buying a brooch, a carrot brooch, when I was in high school. I started really buying clothes and dressing myself properly around the eighth grade. So, I'd say it was from around the eighth grade that I started really expressing myself through both clothing and jewelry. I think it began around that time and has just developed into where I am now. And I still feel like a newbie in the jewelry space. It feels like I kind of just fell into it, and I'm really enjoying it. I'm attending many more jewelry-related events now compared to last year.
So with that new exposure, how do you feel that your taste has evolved, and what key turning points could you point to?
Working with At Present has exposed me to a lot. I'm helping them scout new brands to bring onto the site. So I'm consistently operating within the jewelry space, always looking at different brands with an eye for what's sellable, what's good, and what's the latest thing.
What's interesting about jewelry, compared to fashion, is the greater sense of possibility I feel exists within the jewelry space right now. I feel like there's been a stagnation within the ready-to-wear fashion industry, whereas jewelry has really picked up. Especially now, with talk of tariffs and recession, I think more people are willing to invest a bit more in a piece of jewelry because it can transform an entire look. You could just wear a simple t-shirt, jeans, and a coat, but adding a statement necklace, great earrings, or a fabulous ring sets your outfit apart.
“What's interesting about jewelry, compared to fashion, is the greater sense of possibility I feel exists within the jewelry space right now.”
Can you tell me more about your scouting process for At Present and the qualities you look for in new designers?
Luckily, I have the training from Saks, where I was already attending market appointments. And even before Saks, as a stylist, I was going to market appointments. So, going to market is always going to be a tool I use. Now, of course, it's more focused on jewelry. I still attend ready-to-wear appointments because my newsletter still covers getting dressed. So, I'm going to my typical market appointments but now incorporating more jewelry elements.
“Right now, I'm very into nautical-inspired pieces. I also think stones like turquoise are having a moment.”
When I'm considering which brands make sense for the site, it's about understanding what customers are already drawn to and what price point feels right. But also, you need to cater to your existing audience because they are the ones supporting the business. However, it's also important to gently push their boundaries and introduce them to new things, like saying, 'I know you like this, but how about trying something like this?’
Additionally, it's about following my instincts regarding what I'm drawn to these days. Right now, I'm very into nautical-inspired pieces. I also think stones like turquoise are having a moment. And with the high price of gold, exploring alternatives is also really interesting.
How would you describe your overall jewelry style? Do you gravitate towards certain eras' aesthetics or materials?
My approach to collecting jewelry mirrors my personal style of getting dressed – it's a very eclectic mix. So, there's a bit of a '70s element, for example, from my first fine jewelry purchase, a Renato Cipullo piece. I've also been gravitating towards more Victorian-style pieces, like those with starburst motifs. But I'm also very into a kitschy costume jewelry moment. You know, Jackie O is one of my icons – I even did a piece about her estate sales. So, I'm always looking for pieces that kind of echo her style. But my eyes are open, and I'm even getting into silver; several brands have convinced me that silver isn't a terrible thing.
“My approach to collecting jewelry mirrors my personal style of getting dressed – it's a very eclectic mix.”
Do you have a signature piece or a go-to type of jewelry you wear most often?
I rarely take off my Tiffany band with a small single diamond, a design by Elsa Peretti for Tiffany. I also always wear my Renato paper clip chain. What changes sometimes are the pendants on it, but the one pendant that never comes off is my Sherman Field sapphire tassel. And I always wear earrings, though those tend to vary day-to-day. Right now, I'm really into a pair of diamond hoop earrings from Starling. Another go-to earring pair is from Bernard James – floral earrings with black diamonds. Everything else, like additional rings, bracelets, bangles, or my Hermès Kelly watch, is extra.
“Jewelry is the punctuation to an outfit – maybe a period, an exclamation mark, or even a question mark.”
How does jewelry function within your overall style? Does it complete a look, make a statement, or have another purpose?
Jewelry is the punctuation to an outfit – maybe a period, an exclamation mark, or even a question mark. An outfit doesn't feel complete unless there's something on top of it. For me, at least, even if it's just my usual jewelry with perhaps an additional piece, it's really important. I think it's become even more so while I've been working with At Present. Looking for brands and trying to promote the platform means I also need to 'walk the talk,' in a sense.
Where do you typically find your jewelry? Do you primarily buy new, secondhand, or a mix of both?
You can't have an interesting outfit or conversation if it's all from one time period. A really strong outfit is a mix of different things – high and low, new and old, Victorian and '70s. I've always shopped around. Especially when I started buying clothes and, in a sense, jewelry for myself, the first place I'd go was the local thrift store.
“I don't see one piece as inherently more precious than another. For example, I might pair my Renato chain, which was an investment, with a charm I got off Etsy for $50.”
My closet in high school and the early part of college was a mix of things from vintage stores, Urban Outfitters, and American Apparel. Things have developed since then, but I've always enjoyed that mixing because growing up, my job didn't pay a lot, so I had to supplement what I wanted with finds from vintage and thrift stores. I've come to love that approach. I also treat everything the same way; I don't see one piece as inherently more precious than another. For example, I might pair my Renato chain, which was an investment, with a charm I got off Etsy for $50. Everything holds the same value for me, which is important. I don't have a hierarchy of items in my closet or jewelry box. Everything has a place. Everything has a purpose.
What draws you to secondhand jewelry?
It's the story. There's a history attached to it. I was a history minor at NYU; I've always loved history, so I'm drawn to anything with a historical connection or a great story. Even if I don't know the full history of a piece, I find it fun to think about. That's why I'm drawn to secondhand finds – there's something more to them. So much (contemporary) jewelry on the market right now, just like in ready-to-wear, references older styles. So, if you can find the original piece that an item is referencing, I think that's even more special.
Where are your go-to places for secondhand pieces?
I've purchased a few items from
– I love The RealReal and think they do a great job. That's actually where I got my Tiffany ring. My boyfriend also bought me a strand of pearls from them for my 21st birthday, as pearl is my birthstone. I've also found jewelry on eBay, and I'm obsessed with Etsy. And there are also fantastic sellers on Instagram. While I'm not a big flea market person, not because I'm against it, I wish I had the time and dedication for it.
Do you have a preferred sourcing method (in-person vs. online)?
I do a lot of online shopping. Of course, in-person is great too; sometimes I'll even look at something in person and then end up buying it online. I don't know that I have a particular preference. I shop every way possible – through DMs, online on e-commerce stores, and in physical stores. If there's a way to buy something, I'll buy it that way.
“So much (contemporary) jewelry on the market right now, just like in ready-to-wear, references older styles. So, if you can find the original piece that an item is referencing, I think that's even more special.”
Any tips for identifying quality in secondhand jewelry?
One thing I look for with secondhand jewelry is weight. But I also think 'quality' is an interesting term because ultimately, it has to be worth it to you. If something holds value for you, then that's all the ‘quality’ it needs. It doesn't necessarily matter what the makeup of the piece is. I think first and foremost, if you have an emotional attachment to an item, regardless of its intrinsic value, that's the most important thing…personal value.
What are some of your favorite contemporary designers or brands?
There's Renato Cipullo, of course, Selim Mouzannar, and Don't Let Disco. There's this one brand called CCWW Designs that's interesting right now – I love anything with shells. Lizzie Fortunato, they're always great. Eliburch is amazing, and he's one of the brands that has gotten me into silver; I love how all his pieces have this organic touch and feel. Joie DiGiovanni, I like as well… Sherman Field – I wish I could own everything from her. Sylvia Furmanovich, love. Beck Jewels, love. And Erede, they do lab-grown diamonds so well.
You mentioned shells, which fit your current nautical interest. I'm curious, do you think you'll continue to wear these summer-inspired pieces, like shells, in the winter?
If I'm buying clothes or jewelry, I want to wear them as much as possible. So, why not wear shells in the winter? There are still beaches then, and honestly, beaches are the most beautiful in the winter. Wouldn't necessarily go in the water, but there's something quite romantic about a winter beach.
You buy both contemporary (new) and secondhand jewelry. What are your motivations or the different values you find in sourcing each type?
The thought behind buying contemporary jewelry is support. I love the idea of being able to support brands, uplift them, and introduce them to more people. That's part of why I entered fashion and am now really into the jewelry space – I want these brands to succeed, and if I can help by showcasing or styling their work, then I feel like I'm doing my part.
“I believe an interesting collection requires variety, not just a single style. You need that mix.”
When it comes to secondhand jewelry, I believe an interesting collection requires variety, not just a single style. You need that mix. Also, I think with conversations around taste, you develop taste through experience, not just by buying one brand. It's about looking and pushing yourself. That's what secondhand jewelry is great for. In it, you can often find what contemporary brands are referencing, which is exciting, and you feel like you have the original. But also, it pushes you to discover more of what you like and what you're drawn to.
What advice would you give someone starting a jewelry collection?
I think you should start with the essentials. You should have a strong chain, a ring you'll wear all the time, and a pair of earrings you wear often. Then you can branch out from there and start building upon it. It's like you need to lay the foundation to build up the walls and build out your house of jewelry.
Do you see jewelry as an investment, a form of self-expression, or both?
I was talking to a waiter in California who was admiring my jewelry, and I mentioned it being an investment. He countered with, 'No, no, don't look at it as an investment. You don't look at things that you love as an investment; they're just things that you love.' I loved that perspective. I think when you view things as an investment, it adds a certain pressure. Of course, everything costs money, and yes, if necessary, there are pieces I could sell. But I don't think it's beneficial to primarily see them through the lens of 'this is an investment.' I believe you just have to buy things that you love.
Thank you once again to Jalil for his insights, and thank you all for reading! If you liked this post, please give it a like – it helps people with similar interests discover my newsletter. I appreciate your support in growing this little newsletter.
xx Veronica
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Also, please keep the chat going, and for sourcing requests, DM me or email vvalentinenyc@gmail.com.
What a wonderful interview! I love seeing how creatives like Jalil interpret the world of jewellery. Thank you for interviewing him!!!
This was so good! I love hearing Jalil’s perspective, he always has such interesting takes on styling.