When it comes to popular designs from mega luxury jewelry brands like the Cartier Love, Juste un Clou, and the Van Cleef & Arpels Alhambra, the question arises: Are they still chic? Are they worth purchasing? I am often asked for my thoughts, and honestly, I feel conflicted. Here’s why..
On one hand, these designs are iconic and timeless. On the other hand, the market saturation makes it difficult to maintain a sense of individuality. A good design should stand the test of time, and these pieces have certainly done that. Part of why I love wearing jewelry is that it tells a story. Iconic pieces like the Love bangle and Alhambra have well-known stories, leaving little new to be said.
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While I appreciate these designs, I’m all too quick to say, nope, not for me. Yet, funny enough, I never take off my yellow gold Cartier Love ring from the 1990’s, purchased second-hand (for a small percentage over the gold value, mind you) early in my career. It was one of my first luxury purchases, a symbol of my achievements and aspirations. So this ring holds personal meaning for me, representing a milestone in my life.
Luxury brands often symbolize success, and we are conditioned to believe that owning these items enhances one's social status. So, my initial aversion to these ubiquitous pieces stemmed from feeling like I would be conforming to fit in by buying into these status symbols—it felt uncomfortable and not in line with who I am. But don't we all desire to belong to something? Don't we all seek popularity or status in some way?
I recently heard Khalil Rafati on Melissa Wood Tepperberg's podcast, and he said something that struck a chord with me. He explained that wanting and needing popularity is not just about our ego. For generations, we've seen what popularity can bring. For 10,000 generations, we've observed its benefits. We come from hunter-gatherers who needed to be part of a herd. Being excluded from the group meant being left behind, not procreating, having nothing to eat, and likely not surviving. So this need is hard-wired into our being. We are terrified of public ridicule or not fitting in somewhere. And that’s how the industry gets us to engage.
These brands excel in creating narratives that transform their products into symbols of desired experiences and identities. However, with so many counterfeits on the market and seemingly every other person wearing these pieces, it becomes psychologically challenging for many of us to desire them. And this is where it goes deep! The challenge lies in the idea that many of us (myself included) feel less desire for something if everyone else can have it. When an item becomes widely accessible, it loses appeal, especially if it is associated with people perceived as 'less than.' It's not nice, it's not right, and it doesn't feel good to admit, but it's the truth. The notion of 'When people can access this, it no longer appeals to me' highlights the importance of exclusivity in status symbols. For example, the Birkin bag remains chic and sought after because it is difficult to obtain.
discussed this so eloquently on her brilliant podcast which is a must-listen!There is also the intrinsic value of it all! I just cannot justify paying $7,350 for a gold bracelet that is intrinsically worth around $1,600 (a Cartier Love bracelet weighs between 30 and 38 grams). This stark difference between the actual material value and the market price underscores the influence of branding and perceived status. While emotional and symbolic value play significant roles, understanding the intrinsic value brings a grounded perspective, wouldn't you agree?
So, returning to the question of whether these items are still chic or worth the investment, I can’t provide a definitive answer. I'm not here to tell you what's good or bad, what's in or out, or what's "worth it" or not. I can discuss their value in terms of market price, but value is subjective. What one person considers valuable may not necessarily be valued the same way by someone else.
My role is to share my experiences both as a professional and as a consumer. And my goal is to arm you with information, facts, and insights gained from my experiences. So, with all of this in mind, my best advice is to ask yourself: How does it make you feel? What does it symbolize for you? Does it align with your identity in a meaningful way?
As you may or may not know (hi, new friends!), I lean heavily into post-consumer jewelry. When exploring modern contemporary designs, I seek out small brands and emerging designers with unique, one-off pieces that resonate with me. This preference developed over time as I discovered my taste in jewelry. For me, the journey of finding jewelry that speaks to me is ongoing and ever-evolving. I’ve said this before, and I'll say it again: Jewelry is deeply personal. It serves as a conversation with yourself, a conversation with others, and it serves as a connection with the past, even if it's newly produced work.
What are your thoughts on this topic? I’d love to continue the conversation.
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xx Veronica
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I completely agree. I would much rather have a beautiful, unique piece than something everyone else has. That being said, I do have a silver Tiffany cuff, but I bought it used at a very good price and I do love it.
Oh Veronica, I love reading your newsletter. It’s like a course on the history of jewelry! I wish you all the success possible because you are so generous with your knowledge