Bits and Baubles with Levi Higgs, Head of Archives and Brand Heritage at David Webb
I've long admired Levi Higgs and have been keeping up with his journey since the early days, along with his nearly 80,000 Instagram followers. Our paths have crossed at various events, including those hosted by Gem X, a social group for jewelry enthusiasts where Levi is one of the founding core members. Having witnessed his trajectory and benefited from his insightful advice, I am thrilled to introduce him to you. Levi is a must-follow on Instagram, and here, in my little gem of a newsletter, he shares invaluable advice for those looking to deepen their understanding of jewelry and enhance their collections.
Quick note: This post is too long for email (there's so much great content!), so if you're reading via your inbox, click through to the web version or, even better, view it on the Substack app to see the full post! It’s worth it.
Could you share where your love of jewelry originated and how it influences your work today?
I think it originated from antiquing when I was a child. I always collected tiny precious things and put them in a case or secret box and I feel like that nugget has always been expressed as a jewel to me, or at least that’s how it manifests now.
Your title at David Webb is “Head of Archives and Brand Heritage”. Can you elaborate on what this title entails?
I take care of the entire brand’s historic narrative and material culture. I digitize, research, authenticate, and help come up with brand activations.
You bring history to life through your work. How do you transform archival materials into engaging narratives that resonate with today’s audience?
Webb has an incredible wealth of information, making it a pleasure to explore and develop ideas for brand storytelling that align with our current production. I always approach it with the question, "How will this holistically enhance the brand’s narratives?"
Can you share a memorable story or discovery from your work in jewelry archives that has had a significant impact on you personally or professionally?
Finding the “A Walk in the Woods” film from 1964 that became the core of the exhibition we did in 2022 was a big moment, and it was fun to use that historic touchstone as the nexus for the entire show.
I’ve heard you speak about jewelry as a form of storytelling and personal expression. Could you elaborate on how you see jewelry fulfilling these roles, both historically and in contemporary contexts?
Jewelry interacts with people in a unique way, as it is a decorative art that is always present in their lives. Unlike a chair, textile, or glass vase, jewelry is worn and lives with the person. Because of this intimate connection, jewelry serves as a powerful vessel for narrative and storytelling. Additionally, jewelry often interacts with the highest echelons of society, frequently brushing up against significant historical events. It is present in photographs and other documentation of major moments, becoming emblematic of its owners
Could you highlight a piece of jewelry that you find particularly compelling in terms of its narrative or historical significance?
Oh, so many…. I’ve recently been interested in jewelry that has been worn on the stage. Anything Sarah Bernhardt wore or interacted with (in Medea) is super interesting to me, and the art nouveau masters that made them were geniuses. Especially her snake bracelet that went all around her wrist and arm by Mucha and Fouquet.
How do you see the role of social media evolving in the jewelry industry, and what opportunities or challenges does this present for brands and enthusiasts alike?
It’s certainly gotten more ubiquitous…When I first started on Instagram in 2011, it felt like a way to democratize an otherwise impenetrable field. While this increased access is beneficial, it also means there is a lot more noise now, making it harder to focus and find genuinely interesting new things.
What are some trends or movements in contemporary jewelry design that you find particularly exciting or innovative?
I always love a return to narrative in design. That doesn’t happen often enough. Two designers whose work feels true to this notion are David Michael Jewels and Joy BC. Their pieces are one-of-a-kind wearable art, handmade with meticulous craftsmanship, embodying innovation in jewelry today.
What advice would you give aspiring jewelry historians or enthusiasts looking to deepen their knowledge and appreciation of jewelry as an art form?
Go to the library and take out some jewelry history books written by historians and curators, not just big brand coffee table books.
Levi’s recommended reading:
Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary by Hans Nadelhoffer
Anything written by Judy Rudoe or Dianna Scarisbrick
Falize: A Dynasty of Jewelers by Katherine Purcell (or any of her various talks or features in articles and podcasts like Curious Objects)
Geoffrey Munn (jewelry specialist, historian and writer but is probably best known as a television presenter on the BBC Antiques Roadshow)
You frequently visit museums, auction houses, and major fairs in New York and surrounding areas. Do you think these venues are accessible learning spaces for everyone? Could you offer advice for individuals on how to navigate these spaces and engage with experts effectively?
Auction previews are open to the public and it’s a huge sphere for hands-on learning. Go, ask questions, and make friends with the specialists. This is the best way to deepen your knowledge, immerse yourself in the jewelry, and examine the details like the backs, clasps, and craftsmanship up close.
Can you share some tips for people who are new to collecting jewelry and want to start building their collection?
Save your money, and keep an eye on lesser-known auction houses1. Set up alerts for things you know you like.
How do you think jewelry can be incorporated into everyday fashion and personal style, regardless of budget or occasion?
You just have to commit to wearing something each day, so that piece becomes associated with your look and aura, and it feels off if you're not wearing it. I always wear my rings, a pendant, a bracelet, and a watch, but it never feels like too much because they are always part of my ensemble.
How do you see the role of jewelry evolving in our modern society, and what do you think draws people to adorn themselves with these pieces of wearable art?
Hopefully, more people will understand it as an important part of our social contract with one another. It’s an important way to wordlessly interact and learn about someone and what they stand for or care about. It can be a conversation starter, as well.
Favorite gemstone or material: Kunzite
Signature piece of jewelry you wear every day? Owl coin ring by David Webb, and a Leen Heyne rose cut diamond ring.
Best advice you’ve ever received? Always sleep on a big purchase.
Favorite way to unwind after a busy day? Gym, bath, book.
Fashion icon who inspires you the most? Young Harrison Ford
What’s the last thing you bought? A Castellani micro mosaic stick pin at auction.
What’s the last thing you discovered? That contrary to what I’ve believed my whole life, I do enjoy the beach.
What are you coveting right now? Too many things, I have a notes app to keep track of them all.
What does having taste mean to you? Having a good measure of the essence of oneself, and how to effectively convey it to others. Also, restraint.
Thank you so much for reading. If you enjoyed this post please do share it, like it and comment. It really helps make posts like this more visible. And as always, if you have any questions, comments, need guidance, help sourcing, or just want to say hello, please DM me!
I love creating Vejeweled; it brings me so much joy! If you don't already subscribe, please do. And if you are a subscriber, consider upgrading to a paid subscription. Thank you for supporting my work; it means the world to me.
xx Veronica
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Examples include: Doyle, Farber Auctions, Rago, and Hindman to name a few!