Thing to consider when building your jewelry collection (Part II)
A trending topic: personal taste
"I like to think about taste as something that's not just about consuming a thing or enjoying something superficially on a day-to-day basis, but instead almost making it part of yourself."
So true and so well said…
In "The Beauty of Collecting," I promised to delve into each aspect of your collecting journey. We kicked off this series by dissecting the role of money or budget (thank God that’s over with). Now, I want to dive into how unique aesthetic preferences shape our jewelry collection!
First, let’s note that there is a difference between taste and fashion. Taste evolves over time, while fashion can be seen as taste over time. Personal taste extends beyond visual appeal; it encompasses emotional connections, symbolism, and personal expression.
Jewelry holds profound personal significance, mirroring our past, present, and future aspirations. Each piece carries its story, whether inherited, received as a meaningful gift, or acquired along life's journey. And adorning the body is a universal practice spanning cultures and history, evident from early archaeological findings. And jewelry, far from just decoration, serves as a potent form of communication, conveying messages about status, identity, and personal expression. Every piece we wear contributes to the narrative of who we are, carrying its unique story.
My journey in jewelry has seen my taste evolve through exposure to a vast array of pieces. Working in an estate jewelry firm was a blessing, allowing me not only to observe but also to handle and appreciate jewelry spanning various periods, from Georgian to Art Deco to contemporary. I witnessed how design elements in jewelry mirrored those found in clothing and arts of different eras, reflecting cultural and societal contexts.
Initially drawn to yellow gold for its flattering appearance against my skin and favoring heavier, substantial pieces, my taste expanded as I explored the works of artists who expressed themselves through jewelry. Even if I lacked the vocabulary to articulate it, my attraction to biomorphic designs seen in surrealism, along with sculptural asymmetrical compositions and minimal ornamentation found in modernist works, greatly shaped my taste in jewelry. This influence is especially pronounced in the creations of Art Smith, the first artisan jeweler whose work I've fallen for. His pieces are coveted collector's items that I dream of owning, not only to wear but also to display in my home, as they epitomize wearable works of art.
The boldness, innovation, and surreal elements evident in Smith's work captivated me, leading me to explore other artists and designers such as Robert Lee Morris, Dinh Van, Jean Mahie, Georg Jensen (specifically anything made in collaboration with Nanna Ditzel in the 50s-60s and then architect Zaza Hadid), and Steve Vaubel (whose jewelry continues to be produced today although I prefer the vintage costume pieces). Most recently, I've come across Betty Cooke, whose designs led toward more abstract styles, and current modernist designer, Sophie Buhai, who I am obsessed with! Specifically her nose brooch - how good is it!!??
Over the years I have sought out places and people like Mahnaz Ispahani Bartos (whom I will chat to in a future newsletter) to nurture and refine what I knew to be my taste. The Mahnaz Collection, featuring works by renowned artists, further fueled my passion for collecting jewelry with artistic and historical significance. However, it wasn't solely about this person and this gallery; it played a large part, but my journey was also enriched by exploring various art forms and seeking out individuals who shared my passion for artistic expression through jewelry. Through these experiences, I gained a deeper understanding of my aesthetic preferences.
Some suggestions for refining your taste in jewelry:
Limit your time on social media to prevent the algorithm and influencers from swaying your preferences. You don’t say… As
pointed out in her latest newsletter about why we want what we want, “We want that thing less because of its inherent intrinsic value, and more because of its social value, the status it confers, to those who ‘know’.”Take stock of your home and closet to identify pieces that resonate with your style. Pay attention to materials, designs, and motifs that draw you in, offering valuable clues about your taste in jewelry. For example, if you're consistently drawn to sleek, minimalist decor and clothing, you might also appreciate jewelry designs that echo this aesthetic. Perhaps jewelry pieces that are simple, clean, and devoid of ornamentation, which embody an understated elegance work for you. Brands like Georg Jensen and Lei Studio both Scandinavian (ofc), offer jewelry that aligns perfectly with this style. If you're drawn to more ornate, colorful, and less straightforward, you might appreciate the work of Silva Furmanovich. Her unconventional designs are known for their intricate detailing, often inspired by nature, and unique combinations of materials such as wood and lacquer mixed with gemstones, diamonds, and rich-hued gold. A recent discovery of mine, Axel Russmeyer’s vibrant beadwork may also tickle your fancy.
Go outside! Be mindful of colors and shapes that catch your eye.
Observing someone else's jewelry in the wild or noticing pieces in films or television can be helpful.
Take the opportunity to explore and physically experience different pieces of jewelry to see how they complement your look and feel on your skin. Sometimes, emotional connections can play a bigger role in shaping your preferences than technical knowledge alone.
Keep notes or start a list of favorite pieces to recognize patterns in your preferences.
You don’t know what you don’t know! Doyle Auction House, which I featured in Gala, Goth, and Guppies, along with the Mahnaz Collection, Camilla Dietz Bergeron, and others offers welcoming environments to explore jewelry. And I'm always available if you need guidance and/or recommendations, so feel free to reach out anytime.
Exploring the world of jewelry may seem daunting initially, but with these tips and resources, I hope that you'll navigate it with confidence and discover pieces that truly resonate with you.
Your style is a reflection of who you are, so embrace what speaks to you.
xx
Veronica
Absolutely agree with you re the significance of jewelry to your personal story. I love the years-long process of adding a considered piece of jewelry (Fine or costume, it doesn't matter so long as I have an emotional connection to it ... like art) one at a time. I am also always drawn to the ancient jewelry displays at the Met. So much inspiration there and endless details to appreciate and learn about. Thank you for sharing Art Smith's creations! Off to discover more and possibly get a book about his beautiful designs.
What a great read! And thanks so much for including me x