Gala, Goth, and Guppies
Doyle's upcoming Fine Jewelry sale is brimming with whimsical and conversational pieces
This is a lengthy one with so much to discuss! So click on "view entire message" to read the entire post in your email.
Who or what is Doyle?
With offices strategically located across the United States, spanning from the West Coast to the Midwest, Northeast, and Mid-Atlantic regions, Doyle has established an extensive network that enables them to source treasures from diverse backgrounds, histories, and parts of the world. With this far-reaching presence, Doyle maintains a pulse on the dynamic second-hand market, ensuring that they are always attuned to emerging trends and coveted pieces.
What distinguishes this auction house for me is the personal connection I share with two of my closest friends, Laura Chambers and Martha Garcia. Laura, a specialist, and Martha, Vice President and Appraiser, both work in the jewelry department of Doyle New York. Their impeccable taste and dedication ensure that each collection is expertly curated, making every auction a delightful exploration. Unlike some other auction houses that can feel formal and intimidating, stepping into Doyle's space feels like entering a warm and inviting haven. Here, everything feels accessible regardless of budget constraints, allowing everyone to participate. Martha emphasizes this welcoming atmosphere: "We like to think of ourselves as your friendly neighborhood auction house. We're approachable, offering walk-in services and open viewing on weekends. There's always someone to talk to, and many familiar faces, making our auctions not just transactions but enjoyable experiences."
How are the auctions curated?
Martha explained, "We organize our auctions into three tiers of sales: jewelry online, fine jewelry, and important jewelry. These serve as general guidelines in terms of style and overall value. The auctions are not curated by time period or designer; rather, they are organized based on the preferences of buyers and what they are seeking." This approach ensures that you won't find a $50,000 diamond ring alongside silver David Yurman earrings, as they cater to different buyers. "They are curated in a manner that attracts specific buyers and makes the shopping experience enjoyable." What particularly struck me was their awareness that auctions can be daunting for first-time buyers or those with limited knowledge of jewelry. Everything is designed to be approachable. "Buyers won't feel intimidated by anything in our auctions. They are meant to be accessible in every aspect."
What is for sale?
Curated from several estates and collections spanning from the bustling streets of New York to the sun-soaked hills of Montecito, this auction promises a delightful mix of the old and the new. From heirloom pieces steeped in history to contemporary creations that push the boundaries of design, there's something for everyone. Among the highlights of this selection are pieces that exude whimsy and charm, offering a refreshing departure from the ordinary. Keep an eye out for some of the most intriguing conversation starters from the estate of none other than David Killen, the renowned gallerist and auctioneer.
Let’s get into the jewels…
One designer, in particular, Julius Cohen, shows up several times in the sale. These pieces feature some truly theatrical items that tell captivating stories. For instance, the "Through the Looking Glass" money clip (36), crafted in bronze, portrays Alice on one side and the Blue Caterpillar (aka Absolem) on the other, complete with his hookah. An inscription from the book adorns the edge of the clip, showcasing exquisite attention to detail.
Another standout from Julius Cohen is the "Comedy and Tragedy Mask" earrings (12) and brooch (124). Martha describes them as theatrical, vibrant, and uniquely captivating. "He's a rather exceptional designer, not one we often encounter. Typically, the pieces we've seen from him are more understated. It seems he truly found his stride in the 80s, although he began his career in New York in the 50s. I believe his uncles were associated with Oscar Heyman," Martha explained. These pieces are exceptionally unique, perhaps custom-made for a specific client.
A sizable double griffin brooch (121) also caught my eye. Once again, the level of detail is extraordinary, not only in the craftsmanship of the goldwork, which is remarkable but also in the perfectly matched peridots. People often overlook the fact that stone matching requires considerable effort and skill. The griffin has always been a symbol of fierceness and loyalty in various stories and contexts. While I'm not certain of its specific significance in jewelry, it exudes a captivating aura. Martha noted, “I think that this showcases his particular eye and expertise in that way. This piece, it's a really wonderful blending of all of his different elements.”
Additionally, noteworthy pieces include animated vintage fish brooches (94 and 99) adorned with multi-colored gemstones, an oversized serpentine cocktail ring (110), and a 1980s-era Tiffany openwork bangle (149), likely designed by Angela Cummings during her time creating for the house.
These gold punching bag earring pendants (118) are phenomenal! Believe it or not, they're incredibly lightweight and so much fun to wear. They have Italian markings, although there's no specific maker's mark. They are perfect for a boxer's wife! Or perhaps it's just someone (like me) looking to inject some excitement into their daily routine, sparking conversations or exchanging nods with fellow subway riders. Pieces like these earrings can not only bring joy to the wearer but also bring smiles and start conversations with others just going about their day. And we need more of that today more than ever, I feel.
On the opposite end of the spectrum, there's a Gothic revival locket bracelet (89) that I find particularly captivating from the 1840s. It possesses a wonderfully eerie charm, reminiscent of designers like McQueen or Dilara Findikoglu, who recently staged her latest collection in a Gothic Revival church in East London, creating a twisted fantasy. The bracelet is attributed to Froment Meurice, a renowned French goldsmith known for his distinctive, free, and naturalistic style, often depicting sculptural and figural elements. Crafted from silver and gold, this piece showcases remarkable detail and a smooth, refined finish that belies its age. Surprisingly wearable even today, it exudes a sense of intrigue. Adorned with two cherubs alongside a central figure reminiscent of a medieval king, it captivates even today, as its uniqueness sets it apart in a world of mass-produced jewelry.
I inquired about how such a piece can be confirmed as original and what research is involved. Martha explained, “Confirming authenticity is definitely a team effort. It often requires multiple individuals examining the piece repeatedly. It's almost like forensic analysis. There are certain techniques and styles specific to different time periods, so if something seems out of place, it raises a red flag. We consult literature and jewelry books to ensure the elements align with the time period.” And as I have found, with experience, you develop a sense of what feels authentic. “Dating such pieces is a meticulous process, and we always make note if something appears to be added later." In this case, it should be noted that the bracelet was added to the locket after its original production.
Lastly, I must point out the carved coral gold mesh wristwatch (167). It's from a women-owned and operated independent brand, DeLaneau, known for exclusively designing dress watches for ladies. The carved coral detail is truly remarkable, evoking a distinct 1960s Palm Beach aesthetic, no?
xx Veronica
Your comment on Reva’s stirrup legging thread led me here— your substack is so good! Just subscribed ❤️
Thank you for the mention, Veronica! I didn't know Doyle that well, what an insane selection! This Tiffany bracelet is absolutely stunning and unique 💡