Sourcing Secrets

How I shop secondhand jewelry online

From clothing to furniture to art, I'm a sucker for a good second-hand find. But let's be honest, jewelry is my weakness. My collection is mostly made up of second-hand finds – a mix of things I picked up while working in the industry and some amazing discoveries on online marketplaces like Ruby Lane, Etsy, and eBay. I've been collecting for years now, and I've learned a few things along the way. So, I thought I'd share some of my insights. Knowing what you're looking for (and, just as importantly, what to steer clear of) can make all the difference. And it's all part of the bigger picture of discovering your personal style—something I've explored in other posts.

I’ll walk you through how I approach adding to my collection through online resale platforms. This includes my thought process when searching (from favorite keywords and makers), plus my top tips for vetting sellers and narrowing down your search. And by the way, you don't have to spend a fortune to build a great jewelry collection. Some of my most-worn pieces are vintage costume jewelry. I'm a big believer in mixing high and low—I do the same with my wardrobe. Jewelry is an extension of my wardrobe, after all. So I'll often pair fine jewelry and my Cartier watches (all of which I've found secondhand, by the way!) with well-made costume jewelry. Quality is always my priority, and I've found amazing pieces for around $100, not $1,000!

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Define Your Focus

Just like shopping for anything—a new car, a new bra, even a new partner—it’s best to have a game plan when you're on the hunt. Think about what you love, what your collection is missing, and what would complement the pieces you already have. Having a clear vision makes all the difference.

I'm a total sucker for statement jewelry—the bigger and bolder, the better! My collection is packed with chunky necklaces from the '80s and '90s, long pendant chains from the '70s, and equally substantial earrings from those decades. I also have a thing for quirky modernist, brutalist, and abstract brooches. But while I can appreciate the charm and history of Victorian and Edwardian jewelry, it's just not really my thing…except for this one pair of paste earrings I snagged at a tradeshow—they're in heavy rotation! If you're just starting out and still figuring out your taste, start with broad strokes and refine it over time. Pay attention to what sparks joy—whether it's certain materials, eras, or designs.

I love jewelry that's oversized, makes a statement, and has a cool, mid-century modern aesthetic. Think bold shapes, interesting textures, and a touch of funk.

Pro Tip: Don’t sleep on Google Lens
Google Lens is a fantastic tool for discovering and refining your taste. If you spot a piece you love but can’t quite describe it, take a screenshot or photo and use Google Lens to find similar designs. This can help you identify makers, design elements, and terminology, which in turn sharpens your search vocabulary.

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The Power of Keywords

You probably already know that searching for something as broad as "gold necklace" isn't very helpful—you'll get a ton of results, many of them irrelevant. It's important to understand how to use specific search terms. If you have a clear idea of what you're looking for, be as precise as possible. For example, instead of "gold necklace," try "vintage 1980s statement gold collar necklace" or "yellow gold geometric pendant necklace." Instead of "diamond earrings," try "Art Deco platinum diamond drop earrings." This not only helps you find exactly what you want but can also surface similar pieces you might not have otherwise discovered. However, a word of caution: being too specific can actually limit your results. If a seller uses slightly different wording, their listing might not appear in your search. More on that…

Brooches have been everywhere in the last year (and they don't seem to be going anywhere!), so let's say you're on the hunt for one...

Here is a working example:

• Generic: Searching “vintage brooch” brings up thousands of listings.

• Specific: Searching “modernist abstract brooch” leads you directly to a selection of edgy, sculptural designs.

• Middle Ground: If "modernist abstract brooch" yields no results, scale back to "modernist brooch" or "abstract brooch" to broaden your search slightly while staying focused.

Pro Tip: Experiment with combinations and synonyms to broaden your search. For example, a "brutalist gold brooch" might also be listed as a "chunky abstract brooch" or "mid-century modern brooch." Tweaking your keywords with alternatives like "gold tone" instead of "gold" or "mid-century" instead of "1960s" can help you find listings you might otherwise overlook. However, keep in mind that overly specific searches may limit results if your terms don’t match a listing’s description.

Insider Tip: Sellers often use shorthand like “MCM” for mid-century modern, which can be a game-changer when it comes to searching.

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Evaluating Sellers

What to Look For:

• Details, details, details! I'm talking detailed descriptions (including any flaws or repairs), clear, high-quality photos (multiple angles, close-ups, and accurate measurements. The more info, the better! I always want to see photos from every angle—especially the back—so I can really understand how the piece is made. Close-ups of clasps, hallmarks¹, and details like stones (are any missing or chipped?) or enamel (is it intact?) are crucial. A good seller should be happy to provide additional photos or even videos if you ask. It shows they're transparent and willing to go the extra mile. And even if a listing says "excellent used condition," don't just assume everything's perfect. I always ask about any potential damage or repairs—because what's "excellent" to one person might be "good" to another.

• Good reviews and a solid track record: Reviews can tell you a lot. I read them carefully and often stick with sellers I've had good experiences with in the past (especially if they consistently have pieces I love). But discovering new sellers is part of the fun! Etsy is great for recommending similar sellers and items, and I've found their sellers are usually pretty reliable. Ruby Lane is another great option, with lots of experienced sellers and tons of inventory. I've had less experience with eBay, but I follow the same rules there: scrutinize the listings, ask lots of questions, and check out the seller carefully before buying.
  

What to Avoid:

• Vague descriptions and blurry photos: If the photos are blurry or the description is super vague, that's a major red flag. Think about it: a seller should want to showcase their items in the best possible light, right? Clear photos and detailed descriptions are essential. It's like their online storefront—and what kind of shopping experience do you prefer? I'd much rather see a nicely presented shop because it tells me a lot about the seller: how organized they are, how much they care about their business, and what the overall transaction might be like.

• Stock photos: If they're using stock photos instead of actual pictures of the item, run the other way!

• Bad reviews or inconsistent feedback: Pay close attention to reviews. If a seller has a lot of negative or mixed feedback, it's probably best to steer clear.

• Unrealistic prices (too high or too low): This is a key red flag. Whether a price is drastically lower than expected (a common sign of fakes or scams) or drastically higher (which could indicate overcharging or misrepresentation), it's worth investigating. A great example of this is the Elsa Peretti Tiffany silver bone cuff—it's a very recognizable and highly sought-after piece right now, making it a perfect illustration of why price comparison is so important. Comparing prices on other reputable platforms is essential for pieces like this. This helps you establish a realistic market value. For more generic jewelry or pieces by lesser-known makers, market research can be more challenging, but even searching for similar styles, materials, or time periods can give you a general idea of what to expect. Actionable tip: Researching prices is crucial—it helps you spot both unbelievable deals (that are probably too good to be true) and inflated prices that should raise suspicion.

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To give you some inspiration, I wanted to share a peek at my recent search history and a few new additions to my collection.

A few new secondhand pieces joining the lineup, including my well-loved Angela Cummings earrings (pictured bottom left).

Recent search history:

• “Vintage tassel necklace”: I felt like my collection needed something with movement and texture to add some contrast to my winter knits. Plus, I've been on a bit of a kick for chains that fall below the bust line lately (maybe it's to accentuate my growing baby bump—I'm due in March!), so I was looking for a substantial chain with a detachable tassel pendant.

• “Wide panthere link necklace”: Cartier’s multi-row Mallion Panthère designs, so iconic of the late '80s and '90s, have been on my radar for ages. But since I don't have tens of thousands to drop on a Cartier piece, I searched for a vintage costume version that would give me that same "rich Dallas lady" vibe.

  

  From dream (a late '80s/early '90s Cartier Maillon Panthère) to reality (my unsigned version paired with a vintage St. John cuff), plus a little something extra: the bump!

• “Tubogas collar choker,” “hinged collar necklace,” “vintage coin statement choker,” “modernist collar necklace”: Juju Vera’s Athena collar necklaces are everywhere right now—on all the cool girls, uptown and downtown. I couldn't help but be influenced! I love Juju's designs, but I didn't want the exact same necklace that everyone is wearing. So, I started searching for similar styles: sculpted collars that are hinged or less flexible and sleek, maybe with a coin, a single stone, or even an enameled detail in a contrasting color.

  

  Searching for a similar vibe to Juju Vera's Athena collars, I came across this vintage Monet 1980s omega collar with a striking black enamel pendant.

• “Geometric modernist brooch,” “large vintage sculptural brooch”: Brooches are such a fun and easy way to add some flair to just about anything. I've been pinning them on everything—my winter coat, hats, scarves, knits—you name it! They're the perfect little touch of personality. Plus, I'm fully embracing my inner high school art teacher era, what can I say.

  

  sizable modernist brooches

• “Italian curb link bracelet”: This is a classic staple—you can never have too many! I'm always on the hunt for variations with different widths and textures.

• “Vintage bakelite² jewelry”: Although I was aware of its significance, allure, and collectability, I didn’t own any Bakelite until a few months ago. I was really itching to add some color to my usual yellow gold-on-yellow gold look, and I stumbled across some amazing Bakelite pieces, especially from BakeliteBabyDesign's Etsy shop, which specializes in Deco-era Bakelite. I'll definitely be going back for more!

  

  via BakeliteBabyDesign

  Makers and Origins: I like to keep an eye out for pieces from specific makers and/or regions

• I tend to search for vintage costume jewelry from Monet, Napier, Trifari, and Robert Lee Morris. Seriously, the quality of vintage costume jewelry is just amazing compared to most modern pieces. These designers were absolute masters during their heyday. It was made so differently back then—with so much more attention to detail. I also have to mention that while I love vintage, I have a soft spot for the distinctive aesthetics of contemporary makers like Rachel Comey (yes, the clothing designer also makes jewelry!) and Monies (established in the 1970s). Both makers use unconventional materials and create avant-garde, oversized designs that are always a conversation starter, and I'm always on the lookout for their pieces on the secondary market.

• Anything Italian-made: Italian jewelry is celebrated for its artistry and design, with a particularly rich heritage in gold work. Italian goldsmiths are renowned for their skill in creating intricate chains, from delicate woven styles to substantial curb links. They also masterfully employ techniques like granulation, filigree, and openwork to create gold pieces with exceptional detail and texture. Bold, three-dimensional designs with a focus on form and volume are also hallmarks of Italian jewelry.

• French Assay Marks (hallmarks/stamps): French jewelry is renowned for its high jewelry and exquisite use of precious stones, especially diamonds. Its tradition of exceptional craftsmanship began with royal patronage in the Middle Ages and Renaissance. It's important to remember that many of the master artisans at places like Cartier were French, and trained through rigorous apprenticeships. This focus on skilled artisans is what makes French Haute Joaillerie so special. So, even when you're looking at pieces from smaller French ateliers and workshops, you can often see those same hallmarks of meticulous craftsmanship, refined aesthetics, and innovative use of materials.

• Vintage Taxco silver³: I love the Mexican Southwestern aesthetic of Taxco silver. Unfortunately, I'm allergic to silver, but I still admire the craftsmanship and design.

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I hope this was helpful! I’d love to continue this conversation and feature other stylish individuals and their sourcing methods. If you have any suggestions for future features, or if you'd be interested in sharing your own strategies and discoveries, please reach out—I always love hearing from you.

Happy hunting!

xx Veronica

1. Hallmarks, assay marks, or maker's marks, are identifying marks found on jewelry. On precious metal pieces (like gold, silver, or platinum), they indicate the metal's purity, origin, and sometimes the maker. In costume jewelry, they typically identify the maker or designer and may include other information like a date or serial number.

2. Bakelite is an early plastic material that was incredibly popular in the 1920s and 1930s. It was used to make everything from radios to jewelry, and vintage Bakelite jewelry is now highly collectible for its unique look and historical significance.

3. Taxco silver is silver jewelry and other items produced in Taxco, Mexico. The city's silver working tradition dates back to pre-Hispanic times, but it gained international recognition in the 20th century thanks to the influence of American artist William Spratling, who helped revive the local silver industry.