Hi Everyone,
Summer is racing by, and it’s been anything but slow in the jewelry world! While this season is usually a quieter time for the industry, this year has been buzzing with activity. There’s a palpable sense of anticipation as we look forward to the holiday season and gear up for the tradeshow circuit, which kicks off in September with the Hong Kong show. Here's a quick, delightful roundup of some of the most exciting happenings in the biz. Enjoy!
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Lisa Eisner Jewelry at Row in Amagansett
Lisa Eisner's designs are always buzzworthy, and her pop-up in the Hamptons offers a rare opportunity to experience them up close. Running from August 3 - 11, this event is a must-visit for jewelry enthusiasts.
Lisa Eisner's bold and artistic jewelry, inspired by the free-spirited aesthetic of 70s artist studios, has garnered widespread acclaim. Recently, her pieces were worn by Hailey Bieber in her latest W Magazine spread, and stylists Kate Young and Karla Welch have shown a particular affinity for her work. The artisans of the 1970s often crafted unique, sculptural pieces in bronze, a material that allowed for bold experimentation without the constraints of precious metals. She shares this preference for bronze, appreciating its versatility and the potential for a rich patina that complements her statement-making designs.
Eisner also draws inspiration from the American West, incorporating meticulously selected stones, from Arizona's turquoise to Wyoming's inky black jade, into her pieces set in luxurious bronze or gold. Each of her creations is meticulously handcrafted, often using the lost wax casting technique, resulting in one-of-a-kind treasures. Like the artists who inspired her, she believes in the power of individuality and the importance of owning a truly unique piece of jewelry.
While her work can be found in small collections at Broken English in lower Manhattan, her studio is based in Los Angeles. Experiencing her work in person is a special opportunity. This summer, the pop-up at The Row's Amagansett location offers just that. Nestled in a charming 19th-century cottage, the store's serene ambiance provides the perfect backdrop for showcasing her creations.
Disco Duets: Mosaic Medley Launch
Don't Let Disco's latest collection, created in collaboration with Jalil Johnson, launched on July 26.
The Mosaic Medley necklace and bag charm are part of the limited edition Disco Duets series, created in collaboration with
Jalil’s distinctive whimsy is evident throughout the collection. While the bag charms have already sold out, the necklaces are expected to follow, highlighting the growing interest in one-of-a-kind jewelry. Disco Duets represents more than just a collaboration; it showcases a commitment to sustainability and creativity by fully utilizing surplus materials.
Peridot Spotlight (August Birthstone)
Celebrating August with Peridot, the birthstone of the month, by spotlighting pieces from Harwell Godfrey.
Harwell Godfrey's fine jewelry is deeply inspired by the ancient textiles and patterns of the African Diaspora, blending historical influences with modern design. Each piece is handcrafted in 18-karat gold and adorned with precious gemstones, colorful inlays, and ethically sourced diamonds. The brand's creations are designed with healing energy in mind, thoughtfully selecting gemstones to enhance the wearer's experience.
The collection features figurative references to block printing and weaving from historical cultures, infusing each piece with a sense of history and artistry. Notably, the vibrant green hues of Peridot, symbolizing strength and creativity, are prominently showcased, making them perfect for August birthdays or anyone interested in adding colored gemstones to their collection.
The designer (hi, Lauren!) also offers bespoke services, creating one-of-a-kind pieces that reflect one's individual style and personal stories. For custom inquiries or to secure a spot on the custom calendar, reach out to hello@harwellgodfrey.com. And if you're in or planning a visit to the Bay Area, don't miss her new boutique at the Marin Country Mart, an open-air, charming shopping village—it's a dream!
Curated Vintage Jewelry hits Bergdorf's
For Future Reference's Founder Randi Molofsky curates a stunning selection of vintage jewelry for sale at Bergdorf Goodman.
This curated collection features unsigned vintage statement pieces with a rich history. Partnering with Excalibur Jewelry, a staple of the Los Angeles estate jewelry scene since the 1980s, Randi Molofsky, a self-described “vintage addict,” brings together a carefully selected range of jewels that reflect her taste. Focusing on mostly mid-century modern through the 1990s, these pieces are, frankly, what many women (me, duh!) want to wear today. Precious bits and baubles handed down through generations are given new life through this curated collection. Chunky curb links in two-tone gold, textured gold bibs, a few antique diamond rings, and pops of color in a coral and seed pearl beaded necklace that begs to be layered, along with several gemmy cocktail rings, are showcased side by side. Randi truly has an exceptional eye! The VP room on the first floor offers a private viewing experience for those wanting to explore the collection in depth. Ask for Gabi—she's the best.
Is the lab grown diamond boom over?
Lab-grown diamonds have become mainstream, while natural diamonds are regaining popularity, according to analysts. Prices for lab-grown diamonds are expected to drop significantly due to an oversupply.
Paul Zimnisky, a leading diamond analyst, predicts that jewelers will reduce their focus on lab-grown diamonds and increase their emphasis on natural diamonds over the next year. He notes that most jewelers are not keeping lab-grown diamonds in stock but are instead acquiring them on consignment, as mentioned in my conversation with a NYC diamond dealer in “What’s the Deal?”. This marks a shift from the trend that began in 2018 when lab-grown diamonds gained popularity.
The initial excitement around lab-grown diamonds is waning, especially as lower-priced retailers like Walmart and Pandora promote these stones. Lab-grown diamond prices are expected to continue falling, potentially experiencing declines similar to the estimated 20% drop in 2023. Cormac Kinney, CEO of Diamond Standard, suggests an even steeper price drop, possibly between 50% and 80%, as the appeal of lab-grown diamonds diminishes.
Lab-grown diamonds gained popularity due to their affordability and visual similarity to natural diamonds, and they now make up about 20% of the total diamond market, up from nearly zero in 2015. However, prices for lab-grown diamonds have been decreasing, with discounts reaching up to 90% compared to natural diamonds.
The widespread availability of lab-grown diamonds has diminished their perceived exclusivity, leading some consumers to prefer smaller natural diamonds. Despite their similarities, synthetic diamonds are not the same as natural diamonds, a distinction that can be identified by gem labs and even some consumers.
While demand for lab-grown diamonds will persist, their market growth will slow, transitioning into a distinct, lower-priced market segment. Consumers who purchased lab-grown diamonds may find them difficult to resell, as they have little resale value. Some couples are even opting to replace their lab-grown stones with smaller, real natural diamonds after a few years of marriage.
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This is an industry I know so little about, and I really appreciate the info you curate and designers you highlight - always feel like I’m learning something :)
I’d love to know your thoughts on the vintage Georg Jensen boom we’re seeing in Europe!