The Winter Show: A Jewel Box of Art and History
I launched this newsletter in January 2024—not as a writer by trade, but from a genuine love of jewelry. My experiences working in various parts of the jewelry industry have given me so much to share, and I wanted a way to "lift the curtain" (as I like to say!). It's been such a rewarding experience, and writing this has been a real joy. One of my first few posts (maybe my third?) was a guide to The Winter Show, which is now in its 71st year! It highlighted some of my favorite jewelry dealers at this world-renowned art, antiques, and design fair—a true gathering of experts in fine and decorative arts. This year, I'm trying something a little different. While I'll still be bringing you insights from one of my favorite exhibitors on their curation, booth design, and trend spotting, I also want to explore what makes this show so unique.
What is The Winter Show?
The Winter Show (running January 24th through February 2nd) is a spectacular showcase of exceptional fine art, antiques, and design. It's where past and present meet, giving visitors a chance to explore centuries of craftsmanship and creativity. Jewelry plays a special role in this mix, acting as both personal adornment and a reflection of cultural history.
How Are Jewelry Exhibitors Selected?
Because the show focuses on art, antiques, and design, antique jewelry is the main focus. Potential exhibitors apply through an open portal on the show’s website, and several committees carefully review these applications. While the fair makes sure exhibitors align with the overall ethos of The Winter Show, each booth's specific curation is entirely up to the dealers themselves. Exhibitors often spend months meticulously planning their displays, creating a truly personalized experience for everyone who visits. This process results in a diverse yet cohesive presentation of pieces that perfectly complement the show’s historical and artistic focus.
The Winter Show’s Distinction
The Winter Show isn't just known for its history and prestige; it's also special because it's a non-profit event owned by East Side House Settlement. Based in the South Bronx, East Side House is a community-focused organization dedicated to education and workforce development. They partner with schools, community centers, and other organizations to bring quality education and resources to local residents and provide innovative services that meet the evolving needs of families in the Bronx and Northern Manhattan. This means that all proceeds directly support vital community programs, making it a 100% charitable event. Plus, its 11-day run allows for a much richer experience, with panel discussions, exciting events like Young Collector’s Night, and collaborations with museums and educational institutions. This rich programming creates an atmosphere that perfectly blends cultural enrichment with the thrill of discovery.
What Can Attendees Expect?
Walking into The Winter Show is like stepping into a jewel box, overflowing with incredible finds. Visitors are encouraged to take their time, wander at their own pace, and chat with the exhibitors, who are incredibly passionate about their collections. The fair’s intimate setting offers a museum-quality experience, but with a twist: these incredible pieces are privately owned and often available to purchase. Many of these items are incredibly rare and might disappear into private collections for decades, making the show a truly unique and fleeting opportunity to see—and maybe even acquire—something extraordinary.
If you’re a first-time attendee, it can feel a little overwhelming at first, simply because there’s so much to see. My best advice? Go in with an open mind, soak up the beauty, and don’t be afraid to ask questions. The exhibitors aren't just experts; they're also amazing storytellers, eager to share the fascinating histories behind their pieces. It’s also worth noting that The Winter Show is best enjoyed over a few days, giving you time to fully immerse yourself in everything it has to offer.
The Jewelry-Collector Connection
The inclusion of jewelry at The Winter Show really enhances its appeal, bridging the gap between decorative arts and personal adornment. Because it’s wearable, jewelry provides an accessible entry point for many attendees, offering a tangible connection to history and artistry. Unlike a piece of furniture or a painting, jewelry is both a functional object and a personal statement, making it uniquely compelling. This dual nature broadens perspectives and encourages a deeper appreciation for antiques and design.
A Peek Behind the Scenes with Macklowe Gallery
To get a real inside look at the 'what' and 'why' of the jewelry at The Winter Show, I chatted with one of my absolute favorite antique dealers: Macklowe Gallery. As a longtime exhibitor, they gave me some amazing insights into their curatorial process, how jewelry ties into the broader world of art and antiques on display, and the special connection between jewelry and collectors. From how they prepare for the show to what they're most excited to share with visitors, Macklowe Gallery offers a truly unique perspective on what attendees can expect.
Learn more about President of Macklowe Gallery, Benjamin Macklowe here:
Curatorial Process
At The Winter Show, we focus on presenting exceptional antique heirloom pieces, which align with the event's longstanding dedication to antiquities. Each year, we save some of our finest acquisitions for the show, ensuring the selection represents a comprehensive range of design periods and movements. While we specialize in Art Nouveau—a field we’ve been experts in for over 50 years—we also showcase other significant eras, including Art Deco, Victorian, and Retro, always with an emphasis on beauty, rarity, and historical importance. In short, we bring the best of the best to The Winter Show.
Standout Pieces: A Preview of This Year’s Showstoppers
While we aim to preserve an element of surprise for opening night, there are a few standout pieces we’re thrilled to showcase.
One highlight is a unique Cartier dragon bracelet, created by Cartier Paris. The bracelet features vibrant ruby beads and a stunning dragon head adorned with over 10 carats of jonquille (fancy yellow) Zimmi diamonds alongside colorless diamonds—an extraordinary display of the house’s artistry and craftsmanship.
Another is a Van Cleef & Arpels sapphire suite that beautifully reflects the house's Mughal inspiration. This suite includes a necklace composed of sapphire beads, diamonds, rubies, and emeralds, all set in 18K yellow gold, with matching earrings to complete the look.
These are just a glimpse of what’s to come—we’re excited to present a selection that blends historical significance, exceptional design, and unmatched craftsmanship, offering something truly special for our dedicated collectors.
Broadening Access
We ensure the exhibit appeals to a wide range of collectors by maintaining our standards for every piece we bring—historic importance, rarity, and beauty. Whether it’s a smaller Victorian ring for someone starting their collection or a $1 million signed Lalique masterpiece, every piece in our selection meets the Macklowe Gallery standard.
By carefully curating a range that spans eras and styles—from Georgian jewels to Art Nouveau treasures, Art Deco classics, and Retro designs—we offer something meaningful for both seasoned collectors and those just beginning to appreciate fine jewelry.
Trends and Tastes: What Collectors Want This Year
Our clients’ tastes are as varied as the pieces we collect, but one trend is clear: a deep love for jewelry with a story. Collectors are drawn to pieces with rich provenance, original design sketches, or creations by celebrated designers and manufacturers for renowned houses.
We’ve also noticed a growing interest in untraditional engagement rings, particularly those featuring colored stones from Victorian, Edwardian, and Art Deco eras. These rings are not only beautiful but offer a unique and deeply personal alternative to the classic diamond solitaire.
Jewelry in Context
Jewelry is so much more than adornment—it’s wearable art that reflects the history, culture, and social dynamics of its time. Many pieces in our collection were created by artists who worked across multiple mediums or were inspired by art movements also represented by other exhibitors. For instance, Louis Comfort Tiffany’s jewelry mirrors the artistry found in his iconic lamps, vases, and desk objects. Similarly, Jean Després’ jewelry embodies the spirit of Cubism and his collaborations with contemporaries like Cornault.
Jewelry also provides rich historical context. For instance, during World War II, the use of platinum was restricted to industrial applications, leading to a resurgence of yellow and rose gold, primarily in 14 karat due to the challenging socioeconomic conditions of the time. This shift is a vivid reminder of how global events influenced not just art and design but also materials, craftsmanship, and even fashion—prompting both men and women to adapt their tastes and styles to the realities of the era.
Whether reflecting the spirit of an era, showcasing an artist’s vision, or embodying the materials and techniques of the time, jewelry helps to contextualize and deepen our understanding of the art and antiques featured at the Winter Show.
As I reflect on this newsletter and my evolving relationship with The Winter Show, I'm reminded of why I started this project: to share my passion for jewelry, to offer some helpful insights, and to celebrate its beauty and its important place in the world of art and design. I hope this has offered you a glimpse of what the show has to offer! If you’re planning to attend, let me know—I’d love to hear about your experience and perhaps even see you there!