Uncovering the Stories within Each Facet: A Conversation with Ashley Harris of Don't Let Disco
MORE MAGIC, LESS LOGIC!
I recently had the pleasure of sitting down with Ashley Harris, a dynamic and passionate figure in the jewelry industry. Ashley and I first crossed paths several months ago at a gathering at Mahnaz Gallery, where we discovered that we have mutual friends. From that brief encounter, I could already sense her magnetic energy and profound wisdom, remarkable for her 30-something years.
Ashley is truly an old soul with a deep passion for her craft, which shines through in everything she does. During our conversation, she shared several moments that highlighted her wholehearted love for adornment. It's admirable and contagious—the kind of energy that grabs your heart and pulls you in!
As we talked, we found many parallels in our lives, including similar upbringings in suburban Ohio cities and a lifelong obsession with collecting. Whether it was rocks or jewelry, both of us were heavily influenced by our mothers and grandmothers, who instilled in us a love for beautiful things.
Ashley, a young woman of color making significant strides in the jewelry industry, stands out with her presence, captivating the attention of many who are fascinated by her journey. I count myself among them. She's recently won the Fashion Trust US award for inclusivity. So what inspires her? What fuels her creative spirit? Join me as I explore the story of Ashley Harris and the driving force behind the party which is Don't Let Disco.
This post is a bit lengthy (lots of great chat!), so if you're reading via email, click through to the web version or view it on the Substack app to see the full post.
This interview has been edited for length and clarity.
HOW DID WE GET HERE?
Veronica Valentine: Let's start from the beginning. I'm not a writer by trade. In real life, I'm a gemstone and jewelry specialist. I began writing on Substack because I noticed that much of the content was focused on fashion and the business of fashion, with little for jewelry and gemstone enthusiasts. I wanted to create a space to lift the veil on the jewelry business, which can be quite insular, and make it more accessible. My husband suggested that if there wasn't existing content, I should create it myself, so that's what I did. This journey brings me so much joy, and I'm loving every moment of it. I'm not sure where it will take me, but I'm excited to see what’s next!
Ashley Harris: Quite a bit like you, that’s how I got started. I'm not classically trained in design; I’ve taken some metalsmithing classes here and there. I began making jewelry in high school. I'm 35 now, and back then, thrifting was just becoming the cool thing to do. I wasn't initially into used clothes because thrift stores weren’t as curated as they are now. Instead, I hovered around the jewelry counter, buying vintage or discarded pieces to take apart and reimagine into new designs. I made jewelry for friends, and this passion carried into college.
I’ve always had an entrepreneurial spirit. Working at Sotheby’s, I felt inspired by the extraordinary objects and rare artists I encountered, but I also hit a bit of a glass ceiling. I had a creative itch that needed scratching. Around that time, my grandmother sent me a bracelet I had made in college, which sparked something in me. I had my mom send me my old bead collection, and during lunch breaks, I’d go home and bead. It was cathartic.
A friend at work wore some beaded bracelets, so I made her a few pieces. She gave me feedback, and I refined the designs. Eventually, she commissioned me to make 25 bracelets for her sister's bachelorette trip. From there, my jewelry became popular at work, and I started selling at flea markets.
AH: During the social justice movements of 2020, I began donating sales proceeds to different causes. Growing up in a culturally lacking, predominantly white area of Ohio, this felt like a meaningful way to contribute.
VV: I also grew up in Ohio, a town called Worthington, a predominantly white suburb of Columbus. It's funny how similar our experiences are.
AH: I literally will find my people, like a moth to a flame. In a room of 200 people, I will find the Midwesterners. It's so funny.
AH: During the "awakening of 2020," I observed that people online were frequently pressured to express specific views, almost as if they were being bullied into it. So, I thought, why not create a platform where people could contribute through art instead? I started incorporating current events into my designs. I did this weekly, drawing inspiration from news stories to create meaningful pieces. I felt this was a way for people to engage without feeling pressured to speak out directly. Not everyone has the same comfort level discussing sensitive topics like race, and some may struggle to articulate their thoughts. Using beads to tell stories became a powerful tool for engagement—it's just the beginning of how beads can be used for storytelling purposes, and I love exploring that potential.
VV: We often forget that beads are the earliest form of jewelry, serving as tools for storytelling, expression, and trade.
AH: Yes, that’s so true. They were used as a testament to one's hunting skills and wealth, with the number of bead bones indicating these qualities. Trade beads were particularly significant, symbolizing connections between different cultures and regions. The way beads have moved through history and their use as currency is incredibly fascinating to me.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_474,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fed21c805-ecd1-4b70-a847-e61a37759e12_1154x1154.webp)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_474,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff97a2153-c584-468b-808e-a0c2803d18c2.avif)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_474,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fbce7f595-bf88-4f1e-b631-271228d9590f_670x1116.jpeg)
VV: Taking a step back to your high school days when you had your bead collection, I'm curious about how your fascination with beads began. I collected various things as a kid too, from erasers to fashion magazines and even pogs. But what sparked your interest in beads? And how did you go about sourcing them during that time?
AH: I initially started collecting rocks, I was obsessed with them. Oh, my God. And I remember my mom was like, you have to stop bringing all these rocks into the house! As for the bead collection, it was a mix of factors. My mom shares my love for jewelry, funnily enough, her name is Jewel. She would give me pieces of jewelry she no longer wore, and my grandmother would also contribute to my collection. Whenever possible, I would dismantle the jewelry and repurpose the beads. Eventually, I began organizing everything into cases for easier access when creating. Over time, my collection expanded. And it’s evolved into a mix of old and new pieces, some dating back a decade or more. I find the blending of old and new materials compelling, and we incorporate this concept into our beading bar sessions, where we create an amalgamation of different elements.
CREATIVE PROCESS AND DESIGN ESTHETIC
AH: I started this business in my apartment, and we're still operating from there. Today, I have one production assistant, and I'm constantly expanding my bead collection. We collaborate with independent designers who create custom pieces for us in small batches. I find these designers through various channels like Instagram and Etsy, reaching out to see if they're open to commissions. They're the ones responsible for crafting beads in different forms. It's like a mix of building blocks; we use custom hand-crafted beads from Venice, for example, and sometimes I purchase vintage or antique jewelry from auctions and dismantle them for materials.
VV: I love that you've continued to hunt for post-consumer jewelry, finding inspiration to create something new from them. That’s right up my alley!
AH: Yes, that's a significant part of what we do—sourcing materials. It's exciting for me because we prioritize using existing materials before acquiring new ones. That's why you'll see us revisiting classic designs but with unique twists. Each piece has its small differences, and we often work with natural materials like wood and shells. We've even used beads made from dried coconut in some of our collections.
AH: Initially, we released capsule collections weekly, but it became overwhelming, so now we do them once or twice a month. Each collection features around three to ten designs. We launch them on what I call "One Hit Wonder Fridays," a nod to our beginnings at a market Friday. It feels like we've come full circle, which is another fun aspect of our journey.
VV: How do you approach the process of selecting new artisans for your brand? Do you have a structured approach where you actively seek out specific qualities or styles, or is it more organic?
AH: It's definitely more magic, less logic! Often, inspiration strikes unexpectedly, leading us to source materials without a clear plan for their use.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe9256279-2b72-4015-919a-bd5436dc7841_1200x1208.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F00380db0-ab80-4078-9b76-c5b118ec120b_1200x1600.jpeg)
When moments of inspiration occur, I delve into what I call "sequences," recurring patterns in our work that drive our creative process. Recently, I've been refining and naming these sequences, adding a layer of intentionality to the design process. However, this spontaneity sometimes leads to unforeseen challenges, like the unexpected scarcity and increased costs of materials. And while I wish for a more structured approach to avoid such situations, there's beauty in the organic evolution of our designs.
VV: The patience and the skill of these artisans who carve and craft these intricate beads is wild…
AH: People are insanely creative! We work with a woman from Ukraine who creates these incredible glass insects, including bumblebees. However, I wanted flies because I'm heavily influenced by art, especially from my time working in the art world. I love how Renaissance paintings often feature little flies, like gnawing at a berry in a cornucopia. Despite my friend's skepticism that no one would buy a fly necklace, they were wildly successful. She created custom little flies for us, so in some of our pieces, you'll see a tiny fly gnawing on a raspberry. I adore pieces that evoke a blend of sweetness and decay, a juxtaposition that adds depth and intrigue.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F4f517ace-c3e6-4c45-ba52-cf1d276b9242_1024x810.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F7eb5a97d-34e0-4b93-a03a-f6b1af87dae0_403x600.webp)
VV: Sounds like you’re talking about “tension”.
AH: Yes, I'm drawn to tension in design, where elements contrast rather than harmonize perfectly. Asymmetry also appeals to me—it adds character and dynamism to the composition. Perhaps it's the textbook Libra in me, always seeking a balance between opposing forces.
COMMUNITY
VV: What was the idea behind your beading bars? What inspired you to start these events? I had the privilege of joining you last weekend and thoroughly enjoyed myself! It wasn't just the beading aspect; it was also the connection, sitting at a small table with others, the chats, and mingling with new and interesting people.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F699e3af4-66cf-4bb3-acd0-559937a728f7_1200x1600.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F8022eed9-0301-44a8-a4ec-eaaaaba6864a_1200x1600.jpeg)
AH: It's so much fun! I thought it would be a nice experience for people. Some come once, maybe tell a friend, but we've also built a community of regulars who attend each time. These events usually take place on Sundays, creating a sense of camaraderie among participants. It's remarkable to see strangers sit down together, only to leave as familiar faces if not friends. At the beading bar, we encourage everyone to explore our collection and to play around with the beads and materials available. I like to encourage people to dig through everything and simulate our process of searching for the perfect bead. What speaks to them. It's heartwarming to witness attendees helping each other, whether it's finding the perfect bead or trading materials. It's moments like these that make you wish the world could operate with the same care and generosity. Our beading community is truly special, and I'm grateful to be a part of it.
VV: What are you hoping that participants take away from the experience?
AH: For me, beading has been incredibly cathartic and therapeutic, and I want to share that experience with others. Adults need to remember the importance of play.
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F917bd3ab-727f-481f-86d4-92b7f62dbbb8_739x1042.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F729f2fd2-6e96-421b-8787-293c70e324d9_1200x1334.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F43de8c82-7175-4869-a229-6f04aca3a191_1200x1465.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F16d42404-5d4b-488b-ab12-ef0aa3efe541_1200x1519.jpeg)
The beading bar fosters a special, inclusive community. Even though the sessions are just one hour, we've had people stay for three hours, chatting and connecting with others. And there's magic in creation. Offering people a venue to create is something I'm proud of because it goes beyond just me. It's not just about creating jewelry to sell but about making something that makes people feel good.
STYLE AND PERSONAL EXPRESSION
VV: What's your current favorite piece from your collection?
AH: I have to say, it's our wrap necklaces. I love them because they're customizable, incredibly elegant, and versatile. They can be dressed up or down, and they're size-inclusive. Following the French standard of jewelry that moves like a ribbon, each piece ranges from about 55 to 77 inches. They feature a tiny silk knot between every bead for both preservation and comfort. I adore them because they allow for longer storytelling during their creation process. Everyone finds a unique way to wear theirs; some wrap them around their bags, tie them around their waist, or even braid them into their hair.
VV: What sparked your fascination with rock crystal? I see it used frequently in your work.
AH: I'm obsessed with rock crystal, and that obsession stemmed from my mom's love for antique jewelry. About eight or nine years ago, she came across a stunning set called "Pools of Light" at an estate auction (as discussed with
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_474,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fc4085def-11fd-419a-b435-2ac4547d2e60_462x496.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_474,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ff71fad31-cb0f-497f-9927-95714842926a_1200x1599.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_474,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Ffec8a503-9eac-4c88-b38b-ea31159a09db_856x1600.jpeg)
VV: How does jewelry play a role in your personal style? How do you integrate your designs into your everyday wardrobe? And what do you hope that your jewelry communicates to the wearer?
AH: Just a few months ago, I was browsing through some old photos at home…and in every single one, even from when I was little, I always seem to have on a bracelet or something.
VV: Literally, same. I would not take them off!
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F0aa66ae0-4675-43c1-93d3-2231b7d9eb75_589x504.jpeg)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2F3c4f8903-25e7-4d4a-8a00-00ac626a692f_2861x1970.jpeg)
AH: It's become almost like a signature for me—I don't feel fully dressed unless I have a piece of jewelry on. This has been true even before I started making jewelry myself. I've always enjoyed creating pieces that complement what someone's wearing. Instead of standing out as a "statement necklace," I prefer my designs to blend seamlessly with the wearer's style. They should feel natural and organic, almost like an extension of the person themselves. It's fascinating to see how my pieces transform when someone wears them—they seem to meld perfectly with the individual, and it makes me fall in love with the piece all over again. When that happens, I know it's a success. It says something about the person wearing it—they're expressive, adventurous, and appreciate the artistry and craftsmanship behind it. For me, beads are my canvas. They're how I tell a story, adding that extra touch to whatever outfit you're wearing.
VV: Apart from post-consumer jewelry and your passion for discovery, do you search for other items during your treasure hunts?
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fdbd67549-7109-4b67-8796-b5b552560872_700x700.webp)
![](https://substackcdn.com/image/fetch/w_720,c_limit,f_auto,q_auto:good,fl_progressive:steep/https%3A%2F%2Fsubstack-post-media.s3.amazonaws.com%2Fpublic%2Fimages%2Fe89760cc-65fd-4aaf-8414-51992e83587c_700x700.webp)
AH: I AM passionate about treasure hunting! Whenever someone asks how I deal with stress, my immediate response is treasure hunting. I just love the thrill of the hunt. One thing I'm particularly drawn to is vintage handbags. Additionally, I'm always on the lookout for the perfect solid gold safety pin. It may sound odd, but I adore them. I have quite a collection and often use them as charm enhancers on my necklaces. Alongside handbags and safety pins, I've developed an interest in Hermes Kermit Oliver scarves, thanks to my friend
. She's introduced me to a few other Hermes scarf artists as well. As for a specific bag I have my eye on right now, I'm enamored with the shoulder Birkin.VV: Do you mean the east-west shoulder Birkin from, like, the early 00’s?
AH: Yes, that one! While it may be out of my budget at the moment, I'm always hopeful that one day it might appear at an auction, and perhaps a bit of auction magic will make it mine. It's funny because our pieces were featured in a Wall Street Journal article, and they were displayed over this very bag! It struck me because it felt like my manifestation powers must be really strong.
VV: People have credited you with contributing to the rise of the growing trend of "Birkinifying" handbags by adding charms and trinkets, much like Jane Birkin famously did. You must be aware of this, right?
AH: I find it amusing because it aligns with my belief in self-expression through accessories. Adding charms and personal touches to handbags is a creative way to make them unique and reflective of one's personality. If my work has inspired others to embrace this style and find joy in personalizing their accessories, then I'm honored to be associated with it.
VV: How do you feel about being associated with this trend? And how have you adjusted to the increased attention and visibility within the fashion industry?
AH: I'm thrilled to be associated with this trend—it's a huge testament to our success. However, it's frustrating that we're often not credited in articles discussing it. I've seen numerous pieces showcasing bag charms without any mention of Don't Let Disco. Our only notable mention was in the Wall Street Journal. While it's great to see our impact, I wish we could receive more recognition for it. Nonetheless, it's an exciting preview of what the future holds.
NAVIGATING THE INDUSTRY
VV: What has your experience been like as a woman of color in the jewelry industry, where representation is limited? Have you found it challenging to navigate this space? And how do you handle challenges within this context?
AH: I've certainly felt it. There's this conditioning to just brush it off, you know? My tolerance is so high that I sometimes need to check myself. But there have been moments where people approach the table and make remarks like they're trying to belittle what we do, shrink it down. Sure, beading might start as a tactile exercise, a way to practice fine motor skills. That's why we've been louder and bolder about positioning beaded pieces as luxury items. But for anyone to call our work elementary is offensive. We've encountered this attitude. I've also seen other designers stealing ideas or names from us, perhaps because we're a smaller brand and seem easier to take from. But these experiences drive me to reach higher, do better, and offer something truly unique that makes people feel special. I always aim to give people another reason to love.
LOOKING FORWARD
VV: What are some of the aspirations that you have for Don't Let Disco? And how do you envision your brand evolving in the future?
AH: In the future, I would love to have a plush, elevated space where people can come in, make something, and hang out. It would be a community space where they could shop our original pieces and also build something of their own. Imagine sipping an espresso with a friend while creating something unique. There's magic in creation, and offering a venue for people to create is something I'm gratified by. It goes beyond just making and selling jewelry; it's about providing an experience that makes people feel good. That, to me, means the world.
AH: I'm excited to start working on a comprehensive fine jewelry line, which is on the horizon. We aim to integrate this vision into our beading bar, offering the opportunity to work with precious stones and metals for those interested. And who knows our expansion may not be limited to jewelry; there could be other avenues to explore. My approach to growth is and will remain deliberate and sustainable. We don't aim to scale rapidly; instead, we want to ensure thoughtful expansion, reaching those who would benefit from our offerings.
Thank you so much for reading.
NEXT WEEK: More from Ashley in what I'm calling “Bits and Baubles”! Originally intended as a rapid-fire round at the end of our interview, it turned into a full-blown conversation with too much good stuff to leave out. Stay tuned!
In the meantime, please feel free to reach out with any inquiries, questions, or comments, or just to say hello. I love hearing from you.
xx Veronica
We love Ashley
It was such a treat to chat with you and even sweeter to host you at our most recent beading bar! Thank you and see you soon 💋