Jewelry jargon, lingo, terminology—whatever you want to call it, the language we use in the industry is something I think about little day to day. As I write this newsletter and interact with more of you, I've realized how insular and specific our language can be. I set out to be a source of knowledge, sharing both the mistakes I've made as a professional and a consumer. What I keep coming back to is a simple idea: Know what you don't know. Most of you, dear readers, wouldn't know many of these terms, and most consumers wouldn't either, so you must ask! For example, terms like "heated" or "unheated" can affect the price of a gemstone significantly, sometimes by 10 to 20 times. And if you have heard these terms, you might not fully grasp their meanings. So, I'd like to pull back the curtain and let you in. Come on in!
I’ve put together a list of jewelry terminology, grouped by category, to present to you in manageable bites. This is the first of many installments, as there's an insane amount to cover—much of which I've learned over more than a decade in the industry. What I've discovered is that there's always more to learn. In fact, I’m still learning to this day, which is one of the main reasons I love what I do.
Quick note: This post is too long for email (lots of great content!), so if you're reading via your inbox, click through to the web version or view it on the Substack app to see the full post! It’s worth it. And If you enjoy this post please do share it, like it and comment. It really helps make posts like this more visible. Thank you!
THE BASICS:
CARAT (ct): Unit of weight for precious stones
Carat weight directly impacts the size and value of gemstones. Generally, a higher carat weight means a larger stone, but the size can also be influenced by the gemstone's density and cut. As carat weight increases, the value of the gemstone typically rises because larger stones are rarer and more desirable.
Conversion: Relation to grams (1 carat = 0.2 grams).
History: The term "carat" originates from the carob seed, which was historically used as a standard for weighing gemstones due to its relatively uniform weight. In 1907, the carat was standardized internationally to equal 200 milligrams. This standardization ensures consistency in the measurement and valuation of gemstones worldwide, allowing for precise comparisons and fair trade.
KARAT (K or kt): Measure of the purity of gold
24K Gold (990 mark or stamp1): Pure gold, composed of 99.9% gold. It is very soft and not typically used for jewelry due to its malleability.
Uses: Often used in high-end, luxury jewelry and investment pieces.
Characteristics: Highly malleable and prone to scratching, so it's not ideal for everyday wear.
18K Gold (750): Contains 75% gold and 25% other metals (like copper or silver). It is more durable than 24K gold and has a rich, yellow color.
Uses: Popular for fine jewelry
Characteristics: Has a rich, yellow hue and is more durable than 24K gold, making it suitable for items worn frequently.
14K Gold (585): Contains 58.3% gold and 41.7% other metals. It offers a good balance of durability and gold content, making it popular for everyday jewelry.
Uses: Widely used for everyday jewelry due to its balance of durability and gold content.
Characteristics: Affordable and durable, it maintains a good gold color while being sturdy enough for daily wear.
What’s the difference between yellow and white gold? It’s the alloy metals that differ. In yellow gold, the alloys (other metals) used are copper and silver, which retain the natural yellow color of gold. For white gold, the alloys are metals such as palladium, silver, or nickel, which give it a white or silvery appearance.
10K Gold (417): Contains 41.7% gold and 58.3% other metals. It is the most durable and least expensive of the common gold alloys but has a paler color compared to higher karat gold.
Uses: Common in more affordable and durable jewelry, often used in pieces that are subject to rough wear.
Characteristics: Most durable and least expensive, but with a lighter color compared to higher karat gold.
Sterling Silver (925): Contains 92.5% silver and 7.5% other metals, typically copper. This alloy improves the metal's hardness and durability while maintaining its bright luster.
Uses: Common in a wide range of jewelry. Also used in flatware, decorative items, and occasionally in coins.
Characteristics: Durable and more resistant to damage than pure silver, but can tarnish over time. Regular polishing is needed to maintain its shine. Hypoallergenic and suitable for most skin types.
Fine Silver (999): Contains 99.9% pure silver, making it softer and more prone to scratching and deformation.
Uses: Less common in everyday jewelry due to its softness.
Characteristics: Softer and more malleable, which makes it less suitable for items that experience rough wear. Requires more careful handling and maintenance.
Platinum (950): Platinum is a dense, malleable, and highly durable precious metal with a silvery-white appearance. It is part of the platinum group metals (PGMs) and is known for its resistance to corrosion and tarnish.
Uses: Platinum is popular for its durability and hypoallergenic properties, making it ideal for daily wear (engagement and wedding rings). It’s often used in high-end and luxury jewelry. Platinum's strength securely holds valuable gemstones, such as diamonds.
Why is Platinum More Expensive than Gold?
Platinum is much rarer than gold, with all the platinum ever mined fitting in a room of just 25 cubic feet. It is denser than gold, making platinum jewelry heavier than equivalent gold pieces. The mining and refining process for platinum is more complex and labor-intensive, resulting in higher production costs. Platinum jewelry is typically 95% pure, compared to 75% purity in 18K gold, enhancing its value. High demand in both industrial applications and high-end jewelry drives up its market price.
CUT: Refers to the shape and quality of the gemstone's facets.
Types: Round, princess, emerald, marquise, etc.
Impact: A well-executed cut maximizes a gemstone's natural beauty skillfully managing how light interacts with its facets—an art form that blends science with craftsmanship. Essentially, the cut determines how effectively the stone interacts with light, influencing brilliance, sparkle, and fire. Enhancing a gemstone's appearance and desirability, a well-cut stone becomes more valuable.
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Throughout history, various gemstone cuts have waxed and waned in popularity alongside evolving tastes and advancements in technology. During the Renaissance, rose cuts and cabochon cuts reigned supreme, driven by the limitations of cutting techniques at the time. The Art Deco era favored geometric cuts such as the emerald and baguette cuts for their precision and symmetry.
In modern times, trends in gemstone cuts are heavily influenced by fashion trends, celebrity endorsements, and advancements in cutting technology. Celebrities often play a pivotal role in popularizing specific cuts through engagements, red carpet appearances, and social media posts (duh). This exposure can ignite enthusiasm among collectors and designers alike, leading to increased demand for similar cuts and shapes.
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CLARITY: Measure of the imperfections in a gemstone.
Gemstones fall into three types based on typical inclusions:
Type 1: gems often without inclusions or “eye clean”, like aquamarine and tanzanite.
Type 2: gems typically included, like corundum (all ruby and sapphire), and quartz.
Type 3: gems that are almost always included, like emeralds.
These categories help gemologists and consumers understand what to expect in terms of clarity and appearance for different types of gemstones.Diamond grading differs significantly from the categorization of gemstones based on typical inclusions. While gemstones are categorized into Type 1, Type 2, and Type 3 based on their likelihood of inclusions, diamond grading uses a universal clarity scale. This standardized assessment applies to all diamonds.
Diamond Clarity Grading: Diamonds are graded on a scale ranging from "Flawless" (FL) to "Included" (I). The grades are as follows:Flawless (FL): No internal or external flaws visible under 10x magnification.
Internally Flawless (IF): No internal flaws, but minor surface blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2): Minute inclusions that are difficult for a skilled grader to see under 10x magnification.
Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2): Minor inclusions that are visible under 10x magnification but typically not to the naked eye.
Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2): Noticeable inclusions that are visible under 10x magnification and may be visible to the naked eye.
Included (I1, I2, and I3): Inclusions that are obvious under 10x magnification and likely visible to the naked eye, with increasing severity from I1 to I3.
Common inclusions and blemishes found in gemstones and diamonds:
Needles: Long, thin crystals or mineral fibers.
Feathers: Small cracks or fractures that resemble feathers.
Clouds: Hazy or cloudy areas caused by clustered microscopic crystals.
Included crystals: Small mineral crystals trapped inside the gemstone.
Color zoning: Uneven distribution of color within the gemstone.
Internal fractures: Cracks within the gemstone that can affect durability.
Twinning planes: Lines or areas where crystal growth directions change.
Natural cavities: Void spaces or holes formed naturally within the gem.
Impact on Value: While some inclusions can add character or unique features to a gemstone, generally, higher clarity and minimal inclusions correlate with higher value due to improved transparency, brilliance, durability, and rarity.
COLOR: The hue of the gemstone.
Diamond Color Grading: D (colorless) to Z (light yellow or brown). Additionally, there are natural fancy colors, which include blue, green, pink, yellow, and red ($$)
Colored Gemstones: Hue, tone, and saturation.
Hue: This refers to the primary color of the gemstone, such as red, blue, or green. It describes what color the gemstone appears to be.
Tone: Tone refers to how light or dark the color of the gemstone is. It ranges from very light to very dark. A well-balanced tone can enhance the gemstone's color and appeal.
Saturation: Saturation refers to the intensity or purity of the color. Highly saturated gemstones have vivid and strong colors, while low saturation may result in a dull appearance.
These three factors—hue, tone, and saturation—play crucial roles in determining the overall appearance, beauty, and value of colored gemstones. A perfect balance of these factors can make a gemstone more desirable and therefore valuable.
TREATMENTS: Common color enhancements and treatments
a. Heat Treatment: This is one of the oldest and most common treatments for gemstones. Heating gemstones can alter or enhance their color by changing the arrangement of atoms within the crystal lattice. For example, heating can lighten, darken, or improve the clarity of gemstones like sapphires and rubies.
b. Dyeing: Gemstones, especially porous ones like jade and pearls, can be treated with dyes to enhance or change their color. This treatment is used to achieve more vibrant or fashionable colors that may not occur naturally.
c. Irradiation: Irradiation involves exposing gemstones to radiation to alter their color, producing a wide range of hues such as blues and greens in topaz and diamonds. Often, irradiated gemstones are then heated to stabilize the new color. In my experience, I’ve seen this treatment most commonly used in diamonds to create fancy-looking blues and yellows. Irradiated diamonds are significantly cheaper than untreated diamonds with the same fancy color because naturally fancy-colored diamonds are rare and therefore valuable.
d. Surface Coating: Some gemstones, particularly those with non-uniform color distribution or lower value, may be coated with a thin layer of chemicals (paint) to enhance their appearance. In the trade, we call this "backing." The surface is permeated with a polymer, wax, or plastic to increase durability and improve appearance. This treatment is common in diamonds, pearls, coral, topaz, tanzanite, cubic zirconia, and quartz.
e. Fracture Filling: This treatment involves filling surface-reaching fractures or cavities in gemstones with a substance that has a similar refractive index to the host gemstone. This enhances the gemstone's clarity and can improve its appearance.
f. Oil and Resin Treatment: Gemstones like emeralds are often treated with oils or resins to fill surface-reaching fissures and improve their clarity and color. This treatment is intended to make the gemstones more attractive and durable.
Do these enhancement effect the value of the gemstone?
In general, gemstones that are untreated or have undergone treatments that enhance their natural beauty without compromising durability or stability tend to be more valuable. Transparency and disclosure of treatments are essential in the gemstone market to ensure fair pricing and informed consumer decisions. This should go without saying.
Being armed with this information acts as your armor—ask the questions, because you would be surprised (or not) at how much tomfoolery is out there.
SETTING: The metal framework in which a gemstone is mounted.
Functionality: The functionality of settings in jewelry is twofold: to securely hold gemstones in place and to enhance their visual display by optimizing light interaction. The choice of setting should consider both the practical aspects of security and the aesthetic impact on the gemstone's beauty and value.
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There is so much more to cover, but I hope these few basic terms and explanations are helpful. Please reach out, comment, or DM me—I would love to hear your feedback.
Which jewelry terms are you most baffled by? I would love to include them in a future installment of ‘Say what?!’
Thank you for reading!
xx Veronica
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A mark that is stamped on silver, gold, or platinum jewelry to indicate its purity. Usually, they are small numbers, letters or symbols hidden on the piece’s underside, shank, or clasp. In the U.S. it is required by the National Gold and Silver Marking Act of 1906, that gold jewelry be marked with karat stamp donating its purity.
This is so incredibly helpful!!
So informative as always. Thank you